Frietkotfries, fat and sauce, from a kitchen in Ghent

A kitchen notebook from Ghent · since 2021

Fries, twice.

Notes on making Belgian fries at home, the sauces that go on them, and the huts by the road where other people make them better than I do.

I started this because my sister in Stockport kept texting me for “the fry thing” and I kept giving her a different answer. This is the version I actually use, with the mistakes left in.

Straight to the method · or the sauces

Not any particular kot. A bit of all of them.

The short version

  1. Floury potatoesBintje if you can get them. Never new potatoes, whatever the sack says.
  2. Cut thick, dry wellAbout a centimetre square. Rinse off the starch, then dry them like you mean it.
  3. First fry, low150 to 160 °C until soft and still pale. Then leave them alone for twenty minutes.
  4. Second fry, hot175 to 180 °C for two or three minutes. Salt in a bowl, away from the fryer.

What’s in here

the method

The double fry

Why twice, the temperatures, and a timer that tells you when to stop fiddling.

before the fat

Potatoes

Floury, old, kept out of the fridge. Plus how many kilos to buy for a crowd.

the argument

Beef fat or oil

What I use, what Rik uses, and when it has to go.

15 of them

Sauces

Andalouse to stoofvleessaus, with opinions nobody asked for.

going out

Shacks

Six frietkoten I keep going back to. One of them is gone.

since 2021

Kitchen log

Dated notes, mostly about what went wrong.

me

About

Who writes this, and why it is in English.

Lately, in the log

First fry of the autumn

The first cold Sunday, so the fryer came up from the cellar. I had forgotten how long a solid block of tallow takes to melt: forty minutes on the low setting before I dared turn it up.

Bintjes from the market, a ten-kilo sack now leaning against the cellar door that should see us to November. The fries were good. Not Caravan good. The kitchen smells of fat, the hallway smells of fat, my jumper smells of fat. Worth it.

Agria

Supermarket Agria because the market was rained off. Perfectly good fries, a bit sweeter and more yellow. Bart said he preferred them. I am choosing not to take that personally.

shut

Too hot to stand next to a fryer, so we cycled out to the Caravan. Closed until the 25th, said a handwritten sign taped to the window. We ate sandwiches on the bench by the roundabout instead and felt cheated, in a mild sort of way.

The whole log, back to 2021.

Two things to know

Order friet met at a frietkot here and you get mayonnaise. You don’t name the sauce. “Met” only means “with”, and with means mayo.

Rik, my father-in-law, on air fryers: “That’s an oven with opinions.”